How to machine knit a convertible mitten with cable-stitch on an LK150 using worsted yarn

We are combing some previous designs into a convertible mitten with cable stitches. We are using the LK150 mid-gauge knitting machine and worsted weight yarn. We will have to sew the side seams and knit a few rows of ribbing by hand. With the worsted weight yarn, the hand finish is not going to take too long.

This cabled mitten will match the cabled cowl/ neckwarmer. See the link here. Link of the short rowed mitten project here.

Video tutorial of the convertible mitten with cable

Basic pattern

The pattern is similar to the short-row mitten from before (Link here).

Yarn: any worsted weight yarn. I use Lion Brand Wool-Ease ( 3 oz/ 85g is plenty to make a pair)

Tension: 5 on the mast and 5 on the carriage.

Mock Ribbing

Cast on every other needle (EON) from Left 18 to Right 19 needles,

Using E-wrap cast on and hang some weight,

Knit 30 rows (more rows if you want a longer cuff)

Take off the weight and hang the cast on row back to empty needles (by picking up the upside-down V.)

Increase the tension to 6 and knit 1 row.

Return tension to 5.

Decide the cable stitch location

Now we have needles in every stitch, we have to decide the location of the cable. It will be centered on half of the knitting stitches. The right and left mitten will be symmetrical (on the opposite side). See the chart below.

Transfer the 2 stitches outside the cable to create dropped stitches

Knit 6 rows (plain knitting)

Cable Crossing

Do the first cable crossing using (2) 3-prong tools. I place the right 3 stitches to the left first, then left 3 stitches to the right. The first 3 x 3 cable crossing is done.

Knit 7 rows and do the second cable crossing.

Knit 1 row and ready for knitting the thumb hole

Thumb Hole

Same as the short-row mitten project, we are going to take off 8 stitches on the waste yarn.

Thread a tapestry needle with a piece of waste yarn, thread through the first 8 stitches opposite to the cable side of the mitten and take them off the machine.

Cast on these 8 stitches back using a piece of yarn and e-wrap (or double e-wrap), hang some weight.

Pull out all needles before knitting the next row. Now the thumb hole is done.

Continue the cable pattern

Knit 6 rows and do the third cable crossing

Knit 7 rows an do the 4th cable crossing

Knit 1 row

Now we are ready to take off half of the stitches

Take off half of the stitches (palm side)

We can take off the palm side stitches with some waste yarn or just bind off (with any stretchy bind off).

I use a tapestry needle and a piece of yarn to do the sewn bind off (2 stitches forward and 1 stitch back) until the center 0 so half of the stitches are bound off.

Continue to the short row

Knit 6 rows and do the 5th cable crossing.

Knit 1 row and now ready to short-row

The basic Short Row

The short-row of the mitten is similar to the short-row sock, we reduce it to about 1/3 of stitches and then reverse the short row back to all stitches. Depending on how sharp the angle you want, you can adjust how many stitches to short row. Since we have 18 stitches, I do 6-6-6 stitches.

Set up: change the Russell lever to 1 so it does not knit the needles in the holding position.

Remember to add a lot of weight in the center and pull it down by hand.

Pull out the needle close to the carriage side to the holding position (D), knit one row.

Repeat the same until all outer 6 needles are in the holding position.

Reverse Short-Row

Wrap the yarn under the first needle near the center 1/3 but on the carriage side, and push the needle back until the latch is slightly open (C position on LK150).

knit 1 row.

Repeat the above until all needles are back to the working position (B position).

Now the short-row is done. We just created a pocket.

Change Russell lever back to 2 (plain knitting).

Knit 7 rows

Now, we are at the same level as the palm side bound off stitches.

Bind off or knit a few rows of waste yarn. Then take off the machine.

I use sewn bind off (same as before for a stretchy bind off).

Sew up side seams

Using the flat seaming (Bickford stitch - this is my favorite, see the sock knitting post for detail), mattress stitch, or simple whip stitch, we sew up the side seams starting from the inside of the mock ribbing and go up to the top of the mitten.

Thumb

You can knit the thumb the same way as in the short-row mitten project or the fingerless mitten project. Or I just pick up the stitches plus 1 extra stitch on each side with a circular needle. I hand knit a few 1 x 1 ribbing for about 1.5 inches long and bind off (the sewn bind off.)

You can knit plain stitches first and then a few rows of ribbing. You can also decrease 2 stitches mid-way by knit 2 together so it is less bulky.

The opening

I was planning to just crochet the opening (that’s why I bound off those stitches) but the fabric curves a lot so I picked up the stitches and knit a few rows of 1 x 1 ribbing and then sew up the sides. The bottom ribbing will be hidden inside the flap and the ribbing from the short-row flap will be sewn outside (exterior side of the mitten).

Note for future knitting

Next time, I will pick up 1 or 2 fewer stitches for the ribbing (maybe 17 stitches) so it does not pucker. I will also knit 4-5 rows instead of 3 rows on the outside ribbing (from the flap side) so it covers the opening better.

You can also add a button and crochet a loop to keep the flap open.

Now make another symmetrical one so you can wear them or give away. Happy Knitting.